Just a short drive up the coast from Lisbon lies Ericeira, a traditional fishing town that has earned its place on the global map. As Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve, it's a spot where cobbled streets and blue-and-white houses meet a deeply ingrained, laid-back surf culture. For anyone considering living in Ericeira, it’s a place that offers a lifestyle dictated by the Atlantic tides, blending old-world Portugal with a modern, international feel.
What is life like in Ericeira?
As one of the undisputed top surf towns in Portugal, Ericeira's identity is tied to the ocean, and much of the social life takes place on or near its famous beaches. You'll find serious surfers catching waves at iconic spots like Ribeira d'Ilhas, frequently cited as one of the best surfing hotspots in Portugal, while the wide stretch of sand at Foz do Lizandro, where the river meets the sea, has a more relaxed feel.
Beyond the surf, you'll find traditional fish restaurants alongside trendy cafes and surf shops. There’s a mix of seasoned Portuguese locals who’ve seen the town change, and a growing international crowd of remote workers and young families. This energy is palpable along the coast, with projects like a new surfers village even springing up on the stretch between Ericeira and Nazaré.
Pros and cons of living in Ericeira
Life in Ericeira has plenty of high points, but it’s sensible to be aware of a few of the local quirks before you commit.
Some of the pros of life in Ericeira include:
- A world-class ocean lifestyle: the quality of the waves and the access to the Atlantic are exceptional. You'll find that life here really does revolve around the sea, even if you're not a surfer.
- Incredible fresh food: as a working fishing town, the quality of the local seafood (marisco) is fantastic. You can get freshly caught fish straight from the market or enjoy it at one of the local restaurants.
- Proximity to Lisbon: you get the peace of a coastal town without being isolated. Lisbon is close enough for a day trip, a night out, or even a regular commute.
Some of the cons to consider are:
- The summer crowds: the town’s population swells significantly during the summer months. It can get very busy, which means more traffic, crowded beaches, and a different feel from the quieter off-season.
- The Atlantic climate: Ericeira can be noticeably windier and cooler than Lisbon, thanks to its exposed position on the coast.
Cost of living in Ericeira
The cost of living in Ericeira has certainly seen a rise due to its growing popularity, but it can still feel more manageable than in the capital. According to Numbeo, the overall cost of living here is about 22.2% lower than in Lisbon.
Day-to-day expenses are quite reasonable. A cheap meal at a local spot will set you back around €10, while a meal for two at a mid-range restaurant is generally between €35 and €45. A coffee shouldn't be more than €2, and a local beer is usually just a few euros. Monthly utilities for an apartment can range between €100 and €200, depending on your usage.
When it comes to housing, property prices in Ericeira averaged around €3,230 per m² in July 2025, while the wider Mafra area saw prices of about €2,882 per m². For anyone looking at Ericeira monthly rental options, rent prices in the same period were around €14 per m². This means an 80m² apartment would typically cost about €1,120 per month.
Best places to live in Ericeira
The town unfolds into several areas, each with its own distinct character. Your ideal spot will depend on whether you want to be in the heart of the action, a short stroll from a specific surf break, or in a quieter spot with a bit more space.
The Historic Centre
This is the classic Ericeira you see on postcards. Think narrow, cobbled lanes, traditional blue-and-white houses, and the main town beach, Praia dos Pescadores, right on your doorstep. It’s where you’ll find the majority of restaurants, small shops, and bars. Living here means you’re in the thick of it, able to walk everywhere. The trade-off is that it can be noisy, especially in summer, and parking is notoriously difficult.
North Ericeira (towards Ribeira d'Ilhas)
Stretching north from the town centre, this area is more residential and has a relaxed, surf-centric feel. It's home to a mix of modern apartment blocks and houses, many of which have sea views. Its main draw is the proximity to world-famous surf spots like Ribeira d'Ilhas. It’s quieter than the centre but still close enough to walk or cycle into town. It's a popular choice for both surfers and families.
South Ericeira (towards Foz do Lizandro)
The area south of the centre is more spread out and tends to have larger properties, including villas with gardens. It offers great access to the wide, sandy beach at Foz do Lizandro, which is a favourite for surf schools and families. It’s a peaceful, residential area, but you would almost certainly need a car to pop into town or for grocery shopping.
Ericeira Nascente (Inland/East)
Heading inland from the coast, you enter the area known as Nascente. This part of town feels more traditionally Portuguese and is further removed from the tourist buzz. Here you’ll find more spacious properties, often at a lower price point than those right on the coast. It’s quieter and less exposed to the coastal wind, but a car is essential as you lose that immediate walking access to the beaches and town centre.
Living in Cascais vs. living in Ericeira
Cascais and Ericeira both offer fantastic coastal living, but with very different personalities. The decision comes down to the kind of lifestyle you’re after.
Think of Cascais as the more polished, cosmopolitan town. It has a long history as an upscale resort, which is reflected in its elegant architecture, smart marinas, and designer shops. Its beaches are more sheltered and calmer, making them popular with families. With excellent train links to Lisbon and a large, established international community, it offers a very comfortable and convenient, albeit more expensive, way of life.
Ericeira, on the other hand, retains a more bohemian, laid-back feel rooted in its authentic surf culture. The town is smaller, the coastline is more rugged and wild, and life moves at a slightly slower pace. It attracts a younger, more active crowd who are drawn to the world-class waves and the unpretentious atmosphere.
The most significant difference, and often the deciding factor, is the cost. According to Numbeo, the cost of living in Ericeira is 18.4% lower than in Cascais. In July 2025, property prices in Cascais town averaged an eye-watering €6,533 per m², with the wider Cascais area at €5,327 per m². Rent in Cascais centre was around €21.8 per m². When you compare that to the prices in Ericeira we mentioned earlier—€3,230 per m² for property and €14.0 per m² for rent—it's clear that your money goes a lot further in Ericeira.
Is Ericeira colder than Lisbon?
Ericeira generally feels colder than Lisbon, and it’s all down to its location. Ericeira sits right on the Atlantic coast, fully exposed to the ocean breeze. This consistent wind, while great for surfers, has a significant cooling effect, especially in the mornings and evenings. Lisbon, on the other hand, is more sheltered, situated further inland along the Tagus estuary. It doesn't get the same direct coastal wind, so temperatures there are often a few degrees warmer and feel more still.
Living in Ericeira as a foreigner
Settling into Ericeira as an expat is generally a smooth experience. The town has a long history of welcoming outsiders, first with Portuguese holidaymakers and now with a thriving international community drawn by the surf and the lifestyle. You'll find a friendly blend of locals and expats from all over the world, and the shared love for the ocean makes it easy to meet people. While it gets busy with surf competitions and summer festivals, the underlying vibe remains down-to-earth.
While you can certainly get by with English in most cafes, restaurants, and surf shops, making an effort to learn some Portuguese will go a long way. Trying to speak the language is not just appreciated by the locals but is essential for navigating bureaucracy and feeling integrated into the community.
International schools near Ericeira
While the town itself only has one international school, Brave Generation Academy, several of Portugal’s top institutions are within a manageable, albeit daily, drive. Most are located in the larger residential areas closer to Lisbon and include Carlucci American International School of Lisbon (CAISL), King's College School, International Christian School of Cascais, Sapienti International School, St. Julian's School, and TASIS Portugal.
